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MKIV SUPRA Auto to Manual Swap (version 2) - Part 4 - Tunnel Modification

In part four of the auto-to-manual MKIV supra swap, I cover the install and modification of the stock MKIV automatic tunnel to fit your new manual transmission. The stock auto tunnel physically sits about 3/4" lower than the factory manual tunnel, so you need to trim it to fit, and then install the tunnel conversion product I offer.

This saves many hours of work versus removing the interior and dash, drilling out all the spot welds, and installing a OEM Toyota manual tunnel. This process takes about 30-45 minutes, versus 5+ hours to do the tunnel swap. It is a time saver, and you never see the tunnel underneath the interior panels anyway, so to me this is a no brainer.

Below is the video documenting the install. This process is exactly the same between right hand drive (RHD) and left hand drive (LHD) supras. The tunnel cover, along with all the other swap parts fit directly the same between the chassis, with only differences in the pedals, and clutch master cylinder.

VIDEO BELOW

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NEVER JAYCO!!! - Seneca 37HJ Toterhome body coming apart !!

First, let me start off by saying owning a "toterhome + stacker" has always been a dream of mine. So when I finally got the opportunity to buy one I was crazy excited. I bought this setup earlier this year ( June 2020) so I have not owned it very long at all. We have taken it camping as a family 3-4 times, and I have taken my car to the track once so far. 

Jayco Seneca 37HJ Issues body coming apart peeling broken screws quality



Specs:
2018.5 Jayco Seneca 37HJ
6.7 Cummins

So, I normally would never do a video like this, but after a phone call with Jayco Customer Service, and asking for escalation of my issues to a manager, and still getting denied... I felt I had to share my experience so far.

When I called them, they told me that even though this motorhome is less than two years old, and has less than 20k miles on it, that they would not honor a warranty because I am not the first owner. They told me that they do not transfer warranty because they can not guarantee the previous owner did proper maintence.... So, I asked them "what could the previous owner have done to keep your motorhome from coming apart!!!" This is not due to lack of maintenance at all, this is due to them having extreme lack of quality control. I asked them "If this is what this coach looks like after only 2 years of light use, what will it look like after 6-10 years"... They had ZERO compassion, zero care, which is super frustrating when this is the biggest investment I have ever made other than my home.

The MAJOR ISSUE I found is the main body panels separating at the front of the coach, where the front fiberglass panels meet the main side panel. This issue was put me over the edge, and was fed up with the quality of this less than 2 year old machine with a retail price of $250,000.

The body completely broke, all of the screws had snapped off. The first thing I noticed was the stripes not lining up, and then I noticed the panels actually separating where the rubber trim strip covers the screws.

Watch the video below to see just how bad of a job Jayco does putting together these "Super C" coaches.

 I would highly recommend avoiding Jayco products. I have heard they were bought out by THOR, and maybe that is when these issues started happening? But either way, they have completely ruined my experience with owning a Super C / Toterhome... 

One thing I can take some solace in is that I know I fixed it probably better than even Jayco would in a warranty situation, probably better than any RV repair place, because knowing it was "my coach" and I wanted to do it 100% right and for sure fixed so it would not happen again. There are many other little issues I have had, like it being underpowered (same motor as my 2500 dodge Ram in a giant rig like this), some interior pieces falling apart, doors on the back closet totally shot out... I mean, I guess that is just stuff to be expected in a 2 year old Jayco product? I can tell you this much, Jayco didn't care at all about taking care of me. That is why this was posted.

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MKIV SUPRA Auto to Manual Swap (version 2) - Part 3 - Clutch Pedal and brake pedal install

In part 3 of the MKIV Supra auto to manual conversion, using the GR700 (T56 Magnum-F kit) 6-speed transmission, I am covering the install of the OEM clutch pedal, manual brake pedal, and clutch master cylinder.

If you would like to buy a kit from me, I give you the option to get all the parts required for the swap, including the OEM parts, like the clutch pedal, brake pedal, and interior panel with shift boot. As always, i recommend using my Transmission Request form to get a quote on a full setup, as I can tailor the setup specific to your car... and can recommend a clutch based on your power and streetablity goals, and also make sure I get you every single part required.

Below is the video, of part 3 which covers the Left Hand Drive pedal install. RIGHT HAND DRIVE video coming soon.

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MKIV Supra Auto to Manual Swap (version 2) - Intro and Part One - GR700 Magnum-F kit

Tonight I am launching the first two videos of the new Magnum-F GR700 auto to manual conversion. This video was filmed over the course of a week as I swapped this customers stock twinturbo supra from the A340E factory automatic to my GR700 6-speed manual kit.

In the first video I give you an overview of all the parts in the kit, the clutch this customer chose (Tilton ST-246 twin disc) and the OEM parts as well as other miscellaneous parts required to do the swap. Some of the new parts that come with the magnum-F kit are the Grannas Racing shifter, the large diameter index plate for the quicktime bell, and the bluetooth transmission wiring harness.

One of the things I take great pride in is making sure my kit comes with 100% everything required to do the swap. There should be no trips to the hardware store for missing bolts, and no need for multiple orders from multiple vendors. I keep all of these parts in stock, on the shelf, and ready to ship to you!

If you would like to buy a kit from me, I give you the option to get all the parts required for the swap, including the OEM parts, like the clutch pedal, brake pedal, and interior panel with shift boot. As always, i recommend using my Transmission Request form to get a quote on a full setup, as I can tailor the setup specific to your car... and can recommend a clutch based on your power and streetablity goals, and also make sure I get you every single part required.

VIDEO, PART ONE: INTRODUCTION TO THE KIT

In part two, I show you all the steps to remove the factory automatic. This includes removing the exhaust, driveshaft, A340E transmission, flex plate, oil cooler, torque converter, transmission lines, wiring harness, and basically every step to remove the auto transmission.

VIDEO, PART TWO: REMOVING THE FACTORY AUTOMATIC

Keep an eye out for this continuing series, I have all the video filmed, I just need to edit it all :)

Don't forget to subscribe to my channel 

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TILTON ST-246 CLUTCH - THE BEST 2JZ CLUTCH EVER

Tilton ST246 2jz supra mkiv jza80 v160 v161 t56 magnum tremec swap 1jz

Introducing the Tilton ST-246 twin disc clutch! 

The Tilton ST-246 for 2JZ / 1JZ applications is now available ONLY at Grannas Racing. This clutch not only the best street driving clutch I have ever driven, but also the most quiet twin disc I have ever driven. It features a billet pressure plate, billet flywheel, HD floater and is available in sprung and unsprung (HD) discs. This sets this clutch apart from the competitors, while staying at a comparable price!

The sprung discs are full face organic and are good to 850 Wheel Torque! (roughly 950HP on a 2JZ application) and the unsprung HD disc setup is good to 1250 WHEEL TORQUE (roughly 1500HP on a 2JZ application). These clutches are made 100% in the USA, and can be combined with a transmission kit, hydraulic release bearing, or anything else you may need.

In the video below, I install the clutch into a customers car as well as my personal 2jz swapped FD3S RX7 with T56 Magnum-F transmission. These clutches slip out amazingly and also do not have all the lugging chatter noise that some of the other competitors clutches exhibit. I am honestly blown away with how nice this clutch is, and I expect it to become the new best seller at Grannas Racing.

 

This is available for the V160, V161, and of course the T56 Magnum setups I sell. I have 25 initial clutches on the way, with 10 PRE-SOLD... so that means only 15 are available, and I do not think they will last long...

BUY NOW

If you have any questions, please use my contact page

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WE DID IT! THE FIRST HPATTERN CAR TO RUN 6’S

Mission accomplished! FIRST HPATTERN STICK CAR TO RUN 6 SECONDS - 6.90 @ 194 MPH

Orange man bad Supra 6 second quarter mile

After 11 years of 6speed drag racing, this is a defining moment in not only my history but also world history. There has never been any other H-Pattern stick car to get into the 6 second zone... and I am still in shock that we were able to do it.

We have made such incredible progress over the past 18 months with this car. We got it all started by running 7.68 @ 200 with a standard diaphragm clutch. Then about 6 months later 7.20 @ 206 and 7.17 @ 207 in Florida. Then in March 2020 at TX2K we ran 7.05 @ 207 (twice), and a 7.00 @ 208. The 7.00 pass took the overall Stick/Hpattern record from Boostin Perfomance's Eclipse, the infamous Red Demon. There are a lot of other good, low 7 passes in the mix but I am just covering the highlights.

Now with this 6.90 @ 194 pass under our belt we have become the first ever H-Pattern stick car to run in the 6 second zone. YES... 194 MPH, the car actually shut off at the 1000-1100' mark, so there was room for more ET on this pass. We are still investigating the cause but it is something electrical.

Grannas Racing 6 second quarter mile stick shift 6speed t56 tremec

As I write this, I still can not believe we were able to do this... A year ago I would have never thought this was possible, but with a lot of determination and the best team out there all of the stars lined up and we got that "perfect" pass.

Here is a quick rundown of the car:
Grannas GR2500 billet (Bullet) Engine package
Grannas GR1000F Supra T56 Magnum kit (Liberty faceplated 1-4, Browell Bellhousing)
Grannas Ultimate IRS rear subframe, Ultimate anti-roll bar, Ultimate LCA setup
Precision Chassis Inc. 25.5 chassis
MOTEC "ProDRAG" M150 by Prospeed Autosports / Chris Delgado
The Driveshaft Shop 9" rear with carbon fiber driveshaft
Precision Promod Turbo (102mm)
VWR Promod manifold spec'd by me
Headgames head
GSC cams
Boninfante Adjustable Titanium clutch
MT 28x10.5 Pro Bracket Radials

 

Below: Grannas Racing's 2JZ Engine setupgrannas racing orange supra engine 2jz

I always said watch out if I built a "real" race car... Previously I was too caught up in trying to be a street car. I did well, but nothing like this car does. My white car previous best was 8.17 @ 183 on a SYNCHRO manual, which is no small feat... But the orange car was brought to life and developed for one mission. 

The car got the name "Orange Man Bad" because I set out to do one thing, defy all odds, overcome IRS suspension, and 183 cubes... and go all the way to the White House... The "Commander in Chief" of all stick cars.

Below: The complete chassis under the skin, 95% of the stock unibody remains

While I say the car is a "race car" at the same time, it actually is kind of simple setup. It is still using all the factory suspension pickup points, and it retains the the IRS rear suspension just reinforced with my tubular "Ultimate IRS" rear subframe setup. It is NOT a solid axle, back halved or a 3/4 chassis car. It is a factory unibody car, still has the factory floor, frame rails, factory body (doors/fenders/hood/hatch/front bumper are carbon fiber bolt-on replacements) reinforced with 25.5 chassis and a tubular front end. The chassis and body itself is 100% still a MKIV Supra. The car weighs 3000# with driver. These cars are heavy in factory form, 3600#.... so it is not a featherweight like some people think.

Below: Grannas Racing Ultimate IRS Rear suspension system

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VIDEO BELOW - Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for updates!

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Thank you to all the people involved in this! Especially my tuner Chris Delgado who just has a complete passion for helping guys like me achieve their goals... Hands down the best tuner I have worked with, and just an all around great guy. I also have to give a BIG THANKS to my chassis guy Doug Kline at Precision Chassis. He  took my crazy chassis ideas (IRS) and turned it into a reality. This car/chassis is a dream build for me and I would not do it any other way.

My crew/team Rob Courtney, DJ Hoover, Justin, Lude and all others who help on and off! My wife for putting up with these wild dreams!
Chris Delgado / Zachary Park and the rest of the PROSPEED team!
Precision Chassis, Doug Kline, Jeff Moyer, and team
Brian Roche at Roche Racing Engines
Liberty Gears, Brad and the rest of the team!
Driveshaft Shop - Lee, Tad, Frank and everyone else!
Precision Turbo and Engine
David Localio and his team at Headgames Motorwerks
Fuel Injector Clinic
Precision Racing Suspension / Adam Lambert
Buck Performance
Dana at Virtual Works Racing
Tremec Transmissions
Joel Levy at RaceSpec
Jason Schmuck - Schmuck Built LLC
Neal Young for the alignment work
Browell Bellhousing
Boninfante Friction
Wade Rich, Jason Miller, and all the other track guys who put in a ton of work to make this car hook.

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TREMEC T56 Magnum-F vs Regular magnum - installation in existing GR700 supra

Tremec Magnum-F vs T56 Magnum

My good friend and customer Ryan Scott recently upgraded his GR700 kit to the new Magnum-F transmission. I asked him to highlight the difference in shift experience/feel between the old kits with the Sikky shifter and the new Magnum-F kit I offer. I think the results speak for themselves!

I also asked him to demo the new bluetooth transmission harness product I offer which allows control of the reverse lockout based on speed, and also converts the transmission speedo sensor signal to work with the factory dash/speedometer. All in one nice clean harness which is as close to plug-and-play as possible. All of it controllable and customizable through a smartphone app. This replaces the old way of doing it with the pigtail kit and the SGI-5E or SGI-100BT box.

Here is the video below from Pure Function on youtube.

CURRENT CUSTOMERS:

If you have a current Grannas Racing kit and want to upgrade, there are a few things you will need to change in addition to the transmission:

  1. The Magnum-F Transmission
  2. Driveshaft (magnum-F requires a longer driveshaft)
  3. Shifter (my new magnum-F shifter)
  4. If you are an original automatic MKIV, and used my tunnel cover product, you will need my new magnum-F version tunnel cover. The magnum-F requires a little more trimming and a slightly larger cover.

Contact us if you are interested in a kit, or interested in upgrading! I offer special pricing to return customers!  

 

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INCOME TAX SALE 2020

Grannas Racing Tax Sale

Our 2020 income tax transmission deal will be SUPER SIMPLE.

Buy any COMPLETE transmission kit, and get the $800+ IN FREE PARTS:

  1. Tilton Release bearing $440
  2. Bluetooth transmission wiring harness $260
  3. Billet steel T56 clutch alignment tool $40
  4. Clutch line kit $60
  5. Grannas Flexfit hat $30
  6. Grannas T-Shirt $25

YES! That is $800 in free parts! The time to go manual is now...

How to get this discount? Simply fill out our transmission quote request below and I will send you a quote based on the information provided. Please note, this pricing is only for my 2JZ based kits, I can discount other kits (rotary, LS/V8, 2JZ Universal kits, etc) but they may not carry the same discount. I will do the best I can for you!

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13B and 20B Rotary T56 Magnum swap kits for the FD3S - Updates

After test fitting a Tremec Magnum-F, along with some other R&D on the FD3S rotary chassis, I have updated my current rotary T56 Magnum kits to now only use the manual version bellhousing going forward.

The manual version bellhousing uses an FC3S starter, which mounts rearward towards the transmission. This setup works better for all applications and makes it simpler to manage on my end. This also was done out of necessity, due to the most 20B swaps engine mounts not allowing the automatic starter to fit at all.

The manual version bellhousing will fit both an auto rear plate or manual rear plate, so it only makes sense to do one kit.

The only downside to this style kit is the fact I have to take extra time to machine the magnum trans case to be able to fit the starter. This adds some extra labor costs, but in the end you end up with a beautiful bolt-in kit. See the pictures below showing where I machine the magnum case.

Here is a video of the installed transmission:

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The only bad news, is during this recent R&D I found that the new Magnum-F transmission does not fit well in the FD3S chassis behind the rotary motor. Unfortunately, even though the magnum-F shifter is further back, it still does not sit back far enough, and you would have to cut your tunnel at the front of the shifter hole to clear (see pic below of me trying to test fit a Magnum-F in the FD3S).

Magnum-F Mazda RX-7 FD3S RX7 FC3S Rotary 13B 20B LS1 LS3 LS swap

Tremec T56 Magnum-F Magnum FD3S RX7 fitment tunnel LS LS1 LS3 LS7 swap T56

The downside to this is an extension shifter will still be required. There is no sense in paying the extra money for a Magnum-F, and then still pay for and have to run an extension shifter on top of that. It is cheaper to run the regular magnum and billet relocation shifter setup (Sikky).

Questions or want pricing on a complete setup? Feel free to contact me - I prefer email

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