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Grannas Supra COMPOUND Turbo System Dyno Day

We got the car on the dyno to get a baseline and start to dial in the setup so we can go to the track and start testing. We ran out of time today, but got it to where we are more comfortable on higher boost levels. We stopped at 48psi for today we will turn it up all the way at the track.

Check out near the end of the video where i show the difference between the old turbo spoolup and the new compound setup. Major, major increases on low rpm horsepower. This will help combat small displacement/big turbo problems and help us get out of the hole way better!

I know this may not be the HUGE dyno numbers everyone wanted to see, but again we are only at 48psi and we normally run 80. i am saving the big power tuneup for the track.





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compound turbo 2JZ

Check out this video of our new compound turbo setup build - in the video you will hear it fire up, and i will explain how the setup works and why we did what we did here.

Hoping for new personal bests and hopefully a new Stick Shift / H-Pattern world record


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Grannas Racing Rotary to TREMEC T56 Magnum swap makes things simple

I had issues breaking factory mazda transmissions when making 650+whp... So I did what I always do... and created a kit to make a T56 Magnum fit in the car. SEE VIDEO AT BOTTOM OF PAGE

Grannas Racing 13B 20B RX-7 FD3S transmission kit t56 magnum tremec

My GR700A kit for rotary engine applications makes adapting a T56 Magnum to a rotary a breeze. The bell will work on manual or auto rear plates, same thing as swapping a factory auto car to a factory manual, but in this case you'll be putting in a much stronger transmission.

The first rotary kit I am releasing is the most common asked for application, the Rotary FD3S RX-7 GR700A kit. This kit uses a Tremec Magnum XL, along with my offset shifter to allow for a perfect dead center placement in the OEM transmission tunnel. This kit fits without any modification to the tunnel itself, no hammering, no cutting.

Grannas Racing Rotary RX-7 FD3S mazda transmission dyno tune 13b 20b 12A

The GR700A kit uses our proprietary cast aluminum bellhousing, which is a direct fit, no need for adapters or any other nonsense. If you are buying a complete transmission kit, it will arrive with the crossmember, mount, starter, shifter, and all hardware required. We also will machine the T56 magnum front plate and center case to allow the starter to clear the transmission. This is the Grannas Racing difference... I am very meticulous about making sure everything fits as best it can, and that you get everything you need to make this a painless install.

Grannas Racing FD3S shifter position RX-7 RX7 t56 magnum 13b 20b rotary

I recommend the Tilton ST215 clutch with these setups, which drives super smooth, and has two different power capacities. The sprung-hub organic twin disc is good for 600-650 torque at the wheels. And the cerametallic rigid twin disc is good for 850-900 torque at the wheels. You can see in the video below just how amazing this clutch drives. It is quiet and has a wide engagement range to make for a stock-like clutch experience while having the ability to hold big power.

Here is a video showing my personal car which was used for the R&D of this kit. No more third gear issues! Smooth as silk operation even at high RPM shifting.


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What Pilot Bearing to use with LS and T56 Magnum

There are 3 Chevrolet LS pilot bearings with different OUTSIDE dimensions. This guide will help determine the size for your engine. 

LS1 LS6 LS3 LS2 Pilot bearing inner crank t56 magnum magnum-f

When using the TREMEC aluminum bellhousing or the Quicktime Chevy LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6 bell (RM-8020) with the 5.555" height, you will be using the "inner" pilot which is marked as "A" in the diagram above.

Pilot bearing “A” is the smallest outside diameter 1.094" outer diameter bearing that fits into the innermost pocket of the crankshaft flange. This bearing is typically with T56 and T56 magnum transmission combinations. NOTE: if using the small GM pilot bearing, the internal O-ring seal faces the transmission when installed properly. You can get it at local Autozone or Napa - Dorman part# 690-057 or ACDelco/GM 14061685

If using the Quicktime Small Block / Big Block bell housing (RM-6023) with the 5.950" height you will use the Pilot bearing "B".

Pilot bearing "B" is a 1.705" outer diameter bearing that fits into the outer pocket of the crankshaft flange. This bearing is used with Transmission/Bell housing combination from a 2003 to 2012 GM vehicle. NOTE: This is a double sealed bearing and it may be installed either direction into the crankshaft. You can find this local at NAPA / Autozone part #12557583

IMPORTANT NOTE: many GM LS engines use a press-in oil seal plug deep inside the crankshaft flange. DO NOT move or disturb this plug when removing or installing a pilot bearing. Your old pilot bearing must be removed by means of a mechanical pilot bearing puller. DO NOT attempt to use a “hydraulic” (grease or bread) method to push-out or remove your old pilot bearing! 

The best method to determine the correct pilot bearing position for your application is by using a straight edge or yard stick across the front of your transmission Bell housing and measure the distance that your transmission input shaft protrudes past the front of the bell housing. 

If your transmission input shaft dimension is between 3/4 to 1 inch (19mm to 25.4mm) use the SMALL diameter pilot bearing in crankshaft position "A".

If your transmission input shaft dimension is between 1/4 to 3/8 inch (6.3mm to 9.5mm) test fit the MEDIUM outside diameter pilot bearing into crankshaft position "B". The pilot bearing should be a slight press fit into the crankshaft. If the MEDIUM diameter bearing is a loose fit, please use the LARGE outside diameter bearing for a slight press fit into the crankshaft.

Be sure to install your pilot bearing into the crankshaft by driving or pressing on the outermost part of the bearing ONLY. The pilot bearing must be straight and fully seated into the crankshaft. DO NOT FORCE the installation. Once installed, the inner portion of the bearing must spin freely and smoothly. 

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Should I index my bellhousing?

Do you need to index your bell?
I do recommend checking runout on all bellhousings with an index plate. Yes, including the cast aluminum bell I sell. Any performance transmission setup should be within .005 runout of centerline. When I first setup these cast JZ bells I was really confident we would not have to do any indexing, we had 10 blocks we used for getting data... but after sending out 400+ of these bells we have found more inconsistencies in the blocks. We started noticing more and more customer's toyota blocks who are more out of spec than others. 

Machining Tolerances
We are within .002 on the bells, and consistent, so the inconsistency comes from the blocks... For example, i can take a few of my bells on the same block back to block and get pretty consistent numbers. But if you take one of my bells and try it on 10 different blocks the consistency does not follow. this tells me its a cast block machining tolerance issue.

What are your odds of being out of index?
While it is a smaller percentage (about 15 in 400 bells sold) that have shown an out of index condition, so I think it is better to play it safe and just check these to be sure. Out of index can cause premature failure of the input bearing as well as uneven wear and heat in the input gear. A tell-tale sign of an out of index bell can be a lot of rollover noise coming from the transmission. This is due to a side-loading condition on the input which over time can cause transmission issues. I do index plate rentals for any customer who purchased a bell or kit from me. 

To remove your stock dowels, i recommend soaking them in a penetrating oil and let them sit overnight. Use a pair of heavy duty vice grips and slowly work them back and forth. If the get tight, heat applied to the block around the dowel may be needed

Here is a quick video I did on indexing and offset dowel install:

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WE WON the Stick Shift Class FL2K 6.69 @ 221 mph !! VIDEO BY ThatRacingChannel

FL2K 2022 was the first setup on Orange Man's new 4-link solid axle setup. We struggled and did not get a good qualifier until pass 5 of 5... After we got it figured out, we slowly started bumping up the power. This video does a good job of showing that progression.

Grannas Racing Supra FL2K22 FL2K 2022 winner stick shift video thatracingchannel

The video below is the best TRC has done on my car by far! In the video you will get to see improvements pass to pass, but not only that you will get inside info on the setup of the car and also get to see me working on the clutch. One of my favorite parts is where I am working on the clutch saying "we are going big" right before the last pass where we win the event with the 6.69 @ 221mph pass!

By far my favorite video done so far, thanks to Javier and the crew at That Racing Channel! 

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New Grannas Racing Offset dowel pins - when and how to use them

On a performance transmission setup I always recommending indexing your bellhousing to be within five thousandths of an inch of total runout. Most of the time it is the factory block that varies in tolerance, but with multiple parts stacking up together, and a slim .005 window, the tolerance can get out of spec quickly. In this video I will try to lead you through a quick process on getting you in spec.

Offset dowel pin runout index bellhousing toyota 2jz 1jz rotary 13b 20b honda k20 k24 f20 f22c

All of my cast aluminum bellhousings are precision CNC machined to within .002 but that doesn't mean your OEM block is on center. So always check to make sure!



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Tremec T56 Magnum CLOSE ratio vs WIDE ratio. Which is best?

I get this question a lot! But honestly for me it’s an easy choice because of experience with so many different cars… Especially when dealing with import cars with these 6-speed t56 magnum transmissions.

 which is better tremec close ratio or wide ratio t56 magnum-f XL

Tremec calls the wide ratio “WIDE” because of the WIDER or BIGGER gear splits on 1-4 gears… So before I talk about this further, try to think of how a bigger gap in between gearing effects a car on shifts?

A larger gear split causes for a bigger RPM drop on shift, which results in bigger loss of boost, more lag on each shift. On a small displacement car, like most imports, this is of utmost importance! You want to minimize the car falling out of RPM and boost on shifts, which is inevitable, but the close ratio transmission will help a lot with this. Especially on the 3-4 shift.

I can tell you from experience, that I sell 99 close ratio boxes to every 1 wide. I try to talk to customers and ask why they want the wide ratio and normally after I talk to them about it they will change their thought process and go with the close ratio. Some guys are stuck on it because they want that shorter first gear. But you can not, and should not be picking a transmission based on first gear alone.

The proper way to do this is setup your rear gear to match the transmission. This will give you an ideal overall gearing setup and it will work beautifully. Normally something in the 3.70-4.30 range, depending on tire height with something around 4.10 usually being the sweet spot. If you are a V8 with lots of low end torque you may want to go with taller 3.73 gearing. If you have a small displacement motor like a rotary car or 4cyl with low torque you may want to go to something like a 4.30 gear.

Picking the proper gear depends on 3 things.

  1. your RPM limit
  2. tire size
  3. horsepower 

You can use TREMEC’s calculator to fine tune your gearing choice! 

If you want pricing on a complete transmission kit or any of the Tremec transmission offerings please fill out

Magnum-F Part numbers below:

Magnum-F Part numbers close ratio wide ratio

Magnum Part numbers below:
Tremec Magnum part numbers close ratio wide ratio

Magnum XL part numbers below:
Tremec part numbers Magnum XL mustang close ratio wide ratio


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What Fluid to run in your Tremec transmission and what is the break-in process?

I get this question quite frequently and I figured the best way to address it is to make a quick tech article on recommendations. When you get your brand new Tremec transmission you will see an orange ticket on the side that says "no fluid" which means the transmission ships dry to you. You will need to add fluid before you start driving the car.

What I recommend for a 200-300 mile break-in period (easy driving, no burnouts, flat shifts, no high RPM hard/quick shifts) basically just taking it easy for those miles. I recommend 2-3 heat cycles during this period, so basically put 40 miles on it, let the trans cool down overnight or whatever, and then bring it back to temp, then cool down again.

For this break-in period I recommend using any cheap, over the counter ATF Dex3 (Auto transmission fluid - Dexron-III) or compatible fluid. This should be a non-detergent fluid, you do not want it foaming up inside the transmission.

DEX3 ATF Tremec T56 Magnum recommended break-in period

The transmission capacity is 3.75 quarts, so you will need 4 quarts of fluid to get you on the road.

IF you are on an upgraded trans with all carbon synchros (like my GR1000 units) then you do not want to run heavier fluid, the carbon synchros do not like the heavier weight fluid, i recommend just running a quality name brand ATF DEX3 fluid.

IF your transmission is not a OEM or "GR700" kit unit, then after the break-in period I recommend going to a slightly higher viscosity fluid (75W85), which will help protect the gears at high RPM, yet still allow the synchronizers to work as they should. The higher viscosity fluid will also help a little bit with rollover noise, as it helps take up that "gap" or space between the gear teeth. 

I have had guys ask "why can't i just run shockproof or heavier weight oil"... and the reason to not go to a SUPER heavy fluid is this will make the synchronizers not move as freely and can cause a "notchy" feeling and will lead to grinds, which will shorten the life of the synchronizers.

The fluids I recommend, in the order of preference are as follows: Tremec MTF, Redline MT85, and Motul 75-85. If you are outside the USA or in a place where Tremec MTF is not available i recommend the Redline or Motul option.

I have the Tremec MTF fluid available for purchase on my website, and I try to keep it in stock. It is sold as a case of 4 quarts.

Hopefully this not only helps you, but also helps me as I will get the question less often!



  • Break in period - 200 to 300 miles - use ATF DEX3
  • For BUILT transmissions with all carbon synchros (GR1200) --- AFTER break-in use Royal Purple Sychromesh which seems to play well with the carbon synchros with no issues.
  • For Stock transmissions or GR700 kit transmissions --- AFTER break-in use Tremec MTF, Redline MT85, Royal Purple Sychromesh, or Motul 75-85
  • Capacity 3.75 quarts (T56 Magnum, Magnum-F, Magnum XL).
  • Capacity 2.8 quarts (TKO / TKX / T5) 


Tremec MTF Fluid break-in period ATF DEX3

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Cast bell changes and updates - MADE IN THE USA!

In this video i talk about some changes I am making to our cast bell program. These bells are now made in the USA entirely, they are cast in Ohio, and machined in Pennsylvania. 

grannas cast JZ t56 bellhousing

I am also going to talk a bit about a few rare instances we found where JZ blocks varied in tolerance and how that affected the bells runout. We machine these within VERY tight tolerances but unfortunately the toyota blocks seem to vary more than i thought. 

In the past year I have sold over 350 bellhousings, and of those 350 only 4 have had issues with indexing, so it is VERY rare, but just to ensure that all bases are covered I will be including index plate rentals with every cast bell. It is better to check and find that it is OK. There are too many tolerances that combine which can create a runout issue.

Sorry for the one-take video I did but it should explain everything pretty clearly


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