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A WORST NIGHTMARE - Money shifting a 6 second H-pattern car!

At the Hail Mary Derby 2020, I ran a 6.84 resetting the H-Pattern record, but I also had a few passes that didn't go so well. The first 3-4 passes all where wheelie shows, too much power too late with not enough wheelspeed. After we figured that out we got the new record pass, but I wanted to try and get a better short track pass as the 6.84 pass was on a "soft" 1.20 sixty foot. Well, I got what I wanted with a 1.10 sixty foot wanted but ended up money shifting the car. The dreaded one-two-one shift. Ugh.

Money Shift supra h-pattern one two one stick car drag racing

So, in this video I will try to explain the difference between an H-Pattern "stick shift" car like mine versus a Liberty, Lenco, or other clutchless style "stick shift" transmission. 

For those that follow stick shift racing, we know the difference between clutchless cars and true h-pattern stick shift cars like Grubb Worm, Red Demon, and Minion. I wrote this up and made this video and blog article help clear up some of the differences.

The easiest way to describe the difference is an H-Pattern transmission is what you would find in any OEM manufactured "manual" car. You move the shifter back and forth and left to right in an H-Pattern to select the gears. You select the gears, you "interrupt power" (aka, use the clutch to remove the load) to get from one gear to the next.

A "clutchless" transmission like a Liberty, Lenco or some of the other sequential options allow you to FULL POWER shift from one gear to the next. There is no-pattern in the shifts other than back and forth. Another advantage is these cars never use the clutch other than the initial launch. On large displacement motor cars the full power upshifts would not make as big of a difference.

H-Pattern drag racing has disadvantages, you basically need to "lift" or interrupt power, OR depending on your transmission setup you may have to use the clutch. For example, if you are a REAL street car using a synchronized transmission, you have to clutch the car to keep the synchros alive. With an h-pattern shifter you can also make BIG MISTAKES. Shifting into the wrong gear, the dreaded "money shift" or 1-2-1 shift can happen to even the most experienced drivers. They call it "money shift", because it is going to cost you a lot of money. You can blow a motor, destroy a clutch or transmission, wreck the valvetrain, and i've seen it even send cars into the wall. It is not a good look!

The GR1000F Transmission kit in my car has some extra tricks to help it shift faster and live longer, but it is still a OEM T56 case, and the factory Tremec Magnum helical gearset (with Liberty faceplated 1st-4th gears)... It is in essence what you would find in a 2010 Camaro, with some trickery to make it stronger (cryo/rem) and shift quicker (faceplating). I can shift without the clutch, so I have taken my car one step closer towards "clutchless" but I still have to interrupt power to allow for a gear change.

I use a strain gauge which allows me to cut the power electronically and kill ignition on a shift. This is basically a load cell which can detect deflection in a shifter handle. So basically it can detect when I pull or push on the shifter. When I move the shifter, it does a split-second cut of power, allowing me to jam into the next gear. This is the same principal as "stabbing the clutch" which is just another way to interrupt power to allow the car to get into the next gear.

These little things improve shifting time, and on a small displacement motor with a big turbo any gains there can be substantial. All of these little tricks help make this car the world record holder with a best of 6.84 @ 213mph with "soft" 1.20 sixty foot. At the same event we cut a 1.1 sixty foot, so they say every tenth in the sixty foot equates to two tenths in the quarter, so this car has potential to run 6.60's

In the future, I do plan on going to a Liberty clutchless 5-speed. On a small 3.2L motor, BIG turbo car like mine this full power shifts would keep the car at full power the whole way down the track and also help keep RPM up and the clutch locked up on shifts. I would love to see the ET gains from one of these on my car and that is how "Orange Man Bad" will eventually evolve.

Hope you enjoy the video below! I am taking a much needed four month break from racing! See you all in Texas at TX2K21


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Grannas Supra NEW World Record! 6.84 @ 213 mph

We outdid our 6.90 pass with a new record 6.84 @ 213 mph at the Hail Mary derby in Maryland.

We also ran a 7.03 @ 215.37MPH at this event which also now the "fastest" h-pattern stick shift in the quarter mile. This was on a relatively soft 1.20 sixty foot.

Later in the weekend on Saturday, we were on course for an even deeper 6 second pass with a 1.10 sixty (IRS 60' RECORD) but i mis-shifted and the run was aborted.

Looking forward to TX2K21!!! See you all there!

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Supra Auto to Manual - the Final episodes - 9 & 10

FINALLY, AFTER 10 EPISODES WE ARE COMPLETE. Here are the last two parts of the complete GR700 swap series for converting a factory automatic supra to a 6-speed supra using the Tremec T56 Magnum-F transmission kit by Grannas Racing.

In Episode 9 I cover the wiring and speedometer setup using the bluetooth module harness.

In Episode 10 I cover the shifter install, adjustment of the clutch, and I deliver the car to the customer for his first drive in his new 6-speed supra.


The last episode (coming soon) I will be posting is the alternate information for the RHD cars. I will cover the right hand drive pedal install, and any other related RHD info that differs from the LHD install.

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Supra Auto-to-Manual Conversion - Part Eight - Transmission install - clutch bleeding

In Part eight of the auto-to-manual GR700 swap how to video, I cover the installation of the transmission, T56 Magnum fluid recommendations and how to bleed the clutch. I also show you my really cool Motive power bleeder that I use on every car that comes through the shop. It makes life easy!

I also cover what fluid to use for break-in, and what fluid to use after the break in period is over. As well as some other tips and tricks when it comes to getting the transmission in place. 


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Supra Auto-to-Manual Conversion - Part Seven - Hydraulic Release Bearing Air Gap

In part seven, I am covering one of the most important steps of the install, which is setting up your clutch hydraulic release bearing properly. This requires measuring, and double checking to make sure you got it all right. Improper install can lead to clutch failure or release bearing failures.

Please take your time during these steps and make sure it is right. Tips from this video:

1. Use the measurement technique i show you in the video, measuring first from bellhousing into the clutch fingers, then install the bearing and measure from the bearing face back to the transmission flange.

2. Subtract 3-4mm from the measurement from bell to fingers, and set your bearing distance from the trans flange so you have air gap between the bearing face and the clutch fingers.

3. After you install, bleed the clutch and look through the small window in the front plate of the trans, you should be able to see some gap between the bearing itself and the bearing housing. This is now your air gap.

4. When the install is complete, and you have bled the clutch, there will be NO GAP between the bearing and the clutch fingers. The bearing will be up against the fingers of the clutch, but it will not be putting pressure against the fingers. The bearing will ride on the clutch fingers

I dedicated a video to this process due to the amount of questions, and improper installs and failures with the hydraulic release bearing. Below are some links to some of the products covered in this video

Some of the parts in this video:




Available for many import chassis such as the MKIV Supra, MK3 Supra, MK2 Supra, IS300/Altezza/IS200, SC300/Soarer, GS300/Aristo, FD3S (Rotary, LS, and JZ), 240SX (s13 and s14), S2000 (F20/F22 and 2JZ), Nissan 300zx Z32, and Subaru BRZ / Scion FRS / Toyota FT86.

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MKIV Supra Automatic to Manual Conversion - Part Six - Clutch Install

In part six of the auto to manual conversion series, I cover the installation of the Tilton ST246 clutch.

A couple tips shown in the video:

1. Wiggle the billet alignment tool gently as you install all the pressure plate bolts in a cross pattern. The index tool should slide on and off easily after the clutch is fully installed. This will help you greatly when you go to slide the transmission onto the clutch.

2. Use the alignment tool to help you hold the clutch as you install it. Torque your flywheel to 75 ft lbs. Torque your pressure plate to your clutch manufacturers specifications. On this clutch, they recommend 35 ft lbs.



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MKIV SUPRA Auto to Manual Swap (version 2) - Part 5 - Index Bellhousing, Runout check

In part five of the auto to manual Magnum-F GR700 kit install we are covering how to check runout, and index the bellhousing.

This is one of the most important steps of this install, and I include this index plate with all of my kits now just because I want you guys to have the best possible experience with this transmission kit.

The quicktime bells are supposed to be in spec, but it is always good practice to check them to make sure you are not out. If you have ever had motor work done, like a line bore for billet main caps, it can shift the crank UP in the block, which alone can take you out of center from factory spec.

An off center or "out of index" bellhousing will cause premature wear on the input bearing, the input gear, and will shorten the life of your transmission. This can also cause shifting issues, extra noise, and you can make installing the transmission onto the clutch a real pain in the ass.

I tried to make this video as in-depth as possible, so it is a bit long... but I highly recommend following my procedures and recommendations. If you do need to use the offset dowels, i recommend soaking your OEM dowels in penetrating oil overnight and letting them sit before attempting to remove them.

Parts Lists:


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MKIV SUPRA Auto to Manual Swap (version 2) - Part 4 - Tunnel Modification

In part four of the auto-to-manual MKIV supra swap, I cover the install and modification of the stock MKIV automatic tunnel to fit your new manual transmission. The stock auto tunnel physically sits about 3/4" lower than the factory manual tunnel, so you need to trim it to fit, and then install the tunnel conversion product I offer.

This saves many hours of work versus removing the interior and dash, drilling out all the spot welds, and installing a OEM Toyota manual tunnel. This process takes about 30-45 minutes, versus 5+ hours to do the tunnel swap. It is a time saver, and you never see the tunnel underneath the interior panels anyway, so to me this is a no brainer.

Below is the video documenting the install. This process is exactly the same between right hand drive (RHD) and left hand drive (LHD) supras. The tunnel cover, along with all the other swap parts fit directly the same between the chassis, with only differences in the pedals, and clutch master cylinder.


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NEVER JAYCO!!! - Seneca 37HJ Toterhome body coming apart !!

First, let me start off by saying owning a "toterhome + stacker" has always been a dream of mine. So when I finally got the opportunity to buy one I was crazy excited. I bought this setup earlier this year ( June 2020) so I have not owned it very long at all. We have taken it camping as a family 3-4 times, and I have taken my car to the track once so far. 

Jayco Seneca 37HJ Issues body coming apart peeling broken screws quality

2018.5 Jayco Seneca 37HJ
6.7 Cummins

So, I normally would never do a video like this, but after a phone call with Jayco Customer Service, and asking for escalation of my issues to a manager, and still getting denied... I felt I had to share my experience so far.

When I called them, they told me that even though this motorhome is less than two years old, and has less than 20k miles on it, that they would not honor a warranty because I am not the first owner. They told me that they do not transfer warranty because they can not guarantee the previous owner did proper maintence.... So, I asked them "what could the previous owner have done to keep your motorhome from coming apart!!!" This is not due to lack of maintenance at all, this is due to them having extreme lack of quality control. I asked them "If this is what this coach looks like after only 2 years of light use, what will it look like after 6-10 years"... They had ZERO compassion, zero care, which is super frustrating when this is the biggest investment I have ever made other than my home.

The MAJOR ISSUE I found is the main body panels separating at the front of the coach, where the front fiberglass panels meet the main side panel. This issue was put me over the edge, and was fed up with the quality of this less than 2 year old machine with a retail price of $250,000.

The body completely broke, all of the screws had snapped off. The first thing I noticed was the stripes not lining up, and then I noticed the panels actually separating where the rubber trim strip covers the screws.

Watch the video below to see just how bad of a job Jayco does putting together these "Super C" coaches.

 I would highly recommend avoiding Jayco products. I have heard they were bought out by THOR, and maybe that is when these issues started happening? But either way, they have completely ruined my experience with owning a Super C / Toterhome... 

One thing I can take some solace in is that I know I fixed it probably better than even Jayco would in a warranty situation, probably better than any RV repair place, because knowing it was "my coach" and I wanted to do it 100% right and for sure fixed so it would not happen again. There are many other little issues I have had, like it being underpowered (same motor as my 2500 dodge Ram in a giant rig like this), some interior pieces falling apart, doors on the back closet totally shot out... I mean, I guess that is just stuff to be expected in a 2 year old Jayco product? I can tell you this much, Jayco didn't care at all about taking care of me. That is why this was posted.

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MKIV SUPRA Auto to Manual Swap (version 2) - Part 3 - Clutch Pedal and brake pedal install

In part 3 of the MKIV Supra auto to manual conversion, using the GR700 (T56 Magnum-F kit) 6-speed transmission, I am covering the install of the OEM clutch pedal, manual brake pedal, and clutch master cylinder.

If you would like to buy a kit from me, I give you the option to get all the parts required for the swap, including the OEM parts, like the clutch pedal, brake pedal, and interior panel with shift boot. As always, i recommend using my Transmission Request form to get a quote on a full setup, as I can tailor the setup specific to your car... and can recommend a clutch based on your power and streetablity goals, and also make sure I get you every single part required.

Below is the video, of part 3 which covers the Left Hand Drive pedal install. RIGHT HAND DRIVE video coming soon.

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