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13B and 20B Rotary T56 Magnum swap kits for the FD3S - Updates

After test fitting a Tremec Magnum-F, along with some other R&D on the FD3S rotary chassis, I have updated my current rotary T56 Magnum kits to now only use the manual version bellhousing going forward.

The manual version bellhousing uses an FC3S starter, which mounts rearward towards the transmission. This setup works better for all applications and makes it simpler to manage on my end. This also was done out of necessity, due to the most 20B swaps engine mounts not allowing the automatic starter to fit at all.

The manual version bellhousing will fit both an auto rear plate or manual rear plate, so it only makes sense to do one kit.

The only downside to this style kit is the fact I have to take extra time to machine the magnum trans case to be able to fit the starter. This adds some extra labor costs, but in the end you end up with a beautiful bolt-in kit. See the pictures below showing where I machine the magnum case.

Here is a video of the installed transmission:

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The only bad news, is during this recent R&D I found that the new Magnum-F transmission does not fit well in the FD3S chassis behind the rotary motor. Unfortunately, even though the magnum-F shifter is further back, it still does not sit back far enough, and you would have to cut your tunnel at the front of the shifter hole to clear (see pic below of me trying to test fit a Magnum-F in the FD3S).

Magnum-F Mazda RX-7 FD3S RX7 FC3S Rotary 13B 20B LS1 LS3 LS swap

Tremec T56 Magnum-F Magnum FD3S RX7 fitment tunnel LS LS1 LS3 LS7 swap T56

The downside to this is an extension shifter will still be required. There is no sense in paying the extra money for a Magnum-F, and then still pay for and have to run an extension shifter on top of that. It is cheaper to run the regular magnum and billet relocation shifter setup (Sikky).

Questions or want pricing on a complete setup? Feel free to contact me - I prefer email

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GR700 T56 Magnum 6-speed swap kit for the Mazda FD3S RX-7

You might have seen videos of my 2JZ swapped FD3S... But this will be the first time you will see it since I did the GR700 transmission kit swap.

I have heard people saying these magnums shift clunky, and that the T56 cannot handle RPM. I made this video specifically for those people. I shift my RX7 at around 8k with no issues, and I shift my white Supra at north of 10,000RPM. So anyone that says these cannot handle RPM does not know what they are talking about. With a properly setup clutch these transmissions shift flawlessly. Also, as you can see in this video the transmission shifts super smooth, with very short throws. I think my RX7 shifts better now than it ever did with the V160! The throw is 1/3 the length, and it engages very easily even at high rpm.

The GR700 for the FD3s is a new product I created and is available to anyone with a 2JZ swapped FD3S Rx7, specifically setup for the tech2 subframe. I can also work with other subframes if you can provide dimensions.

Grannas Racing T56 Magnum Swap FD3S RX7 GR700

About my car:

I am using a Tech2 subframe to mount the 2JZ, and the motor itself is a mild build. I am running a "budget" motor which is shelf Eagle rods and JE pistons, stock crank, and an unported head with HKS 272 cams. The rear is a Samberg 8.8 IRS with 4.30 gearing.

The car makes around 650whp on pump gas at 18psi, and about 740whp on E85 at 26psi. I have always ran a V160 in this car, but with parts becoming scarce I wanted to sell it before I had any sort of issue with it. The logical choice was to swap it to one of my GR700 T56 Magnum kits. These trans have tons of aftermarket support, a super strong gearset, and can handle RPM well.

The car has gone 9.6 in the quarter mile and trapped a best of 153. It is a fun all around street car. No cage, no rollbar. I am excited to take it back to the track and see what it will do with the GR700 in the car.

Grannas Racing RX7 FD3S GR700 T56 Magnum

Here is the video of my car running around the streets with GR700 Magnum.

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Jay's 1997 MKIV Supra Automatic to GR-Series T56 Magnum Conversion

When I picked up Jay's car in upstate NY the plan was to just take out the factory automatic transmission and install the GR700 manual. Well it turned out to be a little more of a project... Since Jay also had a ETS intercooler he wanted installed along with the transmission, I told Jay it was worth the money to just make this car full BPU and do a downpipe, intake and tune as well. I also converted the car over to TTC and got rid of all the factory twin boost control and did a boost control solenoid which is controlled with the Haltech. The car is making 15psi on the stock twins and runs great.

Jay has big plans for the car, and he plans on bringing it back over the winter. He was considering just going right in and doing the build right away, but since he just bought the car I told him "It's summertime, enjoy the car for a bit, and do the build over the winter when you can't drive the car anyway!"... So he agreed. Jay was torn between starting out with the GR700, or just taking the plunge and doing the GR1000 right off the start. I told him we can upgrade the trans over the winter at the same time we are doing the engine build.

So in essence, this is a temporary build, something for Jay to enjoy for a bit. He plans on doing a wild build, and his eventual goal is to do a full build to make 1500HP. 

Big thanks to Darin Dichiara for doing a nice job with the remote tune on this car!

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What I did on this "build":

  1. Enclosed transport pickup/delivery (I can do this within 6 hours of PA)
  2. Automatic transmission removal
  3. GR700 install with Clutchmasters FX850 twin disc
  4. Clutch pedal/brake pedal, Supra 6-speed interior panel, and Tilton Clutch Master adapter install
  5. Auto to manual swap wiring (speedo, nuetral switch, reverse lights)
  6. Installed a Grannas Racing auto to manual tunnel cover
  7. ETS Intercooler install
  8. TTC Conversion
  9. HKS Intake install
  10. Tanabe downpipe install, and welded on WB02 bung
  11. Haltech Sport 2000 install w/ 3-port boost control and AEM wideband

 

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Supra with T56 Magnum doesn't shift like a V160

Well, of course it doesn't shift exactly the same as a V160. The T56 Magnum is made by different company and has quite a bit different design, especially when it comes to the shifter.

If you want to experience the "feel" how the T56 Magnum shifts, you can test drive a 2010+ camaro SS, 2008-2013 Corvette, 2013+ Viper, 2007 Mustang GT500, or 2009+ Challenger. The same gearset is used in these factory cars, and this transmission is widely used by FORD, GM, and DODGE! Also, you may notice a recurring theme with all the car in the above list... High Performance!

The shifter is your connection to the car's heart, and you become very used to how the feel of each shift. I got very accustomed to the V160 after racing/driving it for 6 years, so when I first drove my car with the T56 Magnum I didn't love the shift feel. But after driving it for a short time, I got used to the feel and it became the new norm. I would describe the V160 as having long, loose throws. I say "loose" because the tripod design can give somewhat of a sloppy feel... which is totally different from the magnums integrated shifter, which has tight, super short throws.

I think this is why most of the auto guys who swap to this trans have no issue getting used to the shift feel. Only the guys who have driven the V160 for long periods like myself have gotten used to that v160 style shift feel, and at first may not like the change.

There are some people out there who say you degrade the value of your supra by putting a T56 Magnum in it. They believe the Getrag built V160 is some sort of God's gift to the world. I will admit, I AM one of those purists/weirdos when it comes to the 2JZ powerplant, which is the heart of the car. The TOYOTA made 2JZ quite possibly is God's gift. The Getrag made V160, while it is a great gearbox, it is just that... a gearbox. Swapping it out causes me no grief. Especially when it involves swapping it out for a trans that is capable and currently in production. I don't see the Supra purists having issue the factory auto guys who swap to a TH400.

Here is an example of the "clunky" T56 Magnum transmission on the highway LOL. This is Kyle's MKIV Supra from FL, he swapped from a factory auto to a magnum.

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Supra T56 Magnum Swap - 2JZ Quicktime Steel SFI bellhousing vs CRS aluminum bellhousing

When I first started testing a T56 magnum I used an Australian made aluminum bellhousing. It worked well, and was a little bit cheaper than the Steel bellhousings offered in the USA. I also thought that the aluminum bellhousing would be much lighter, which is good for what I am doing... but recently I found that is not really the case. It is a only 2.8 lbs lighter than the steel bell.

Here is the weights of the quicktime bell vs the CRS aluminum bell.
2JZ t56 swap bellhousings

Also shipping these CRS bellhousings the whole way from Australia pretty much kills the price savings over the Quicktime bells. So, I decided to try a quicktime bellhousing in my car... and I gotta say I am overall very impressed.

On the lift:
toyota supra t56 magnum grannas racing swap tr6060

The quality is great, and the weight is not that much greater than the aluminum bell. And its SFI-approved for racing. The bell is tapped steel, versus tapped aluminum, so you don't have to worry about stripping threads. The steel is much stronger than the cast aluminum as well. So really, the pros of using a Quicktime bell now outweigh the cons, and I will be transitioning all of my kits over to use the Quicktime bellhousing.  

Here is my GR1000 kit installed on my 1994 Toyota Supra:
t56 magnum supra 2jz swap tr6060

If you already bought a CRS bellhousing I do offer an CRS option for the MKIV Supra crossmember as well as the IS300 crossmember.

t56 magnum mount crossmember supra 2jz mkiv

So there are only a few downsides to the Quicktime bellhousing, but I put together a remedy for that. First, they do not include proper hardware for the block. The bolts I got were not the large fine thread metric bolts the 2JZ block requires. So, an easy fix. I will provide the proper bolts if you purchase the bell from me. Second, the quicktime bell does not provide a pilot bearing for the T56 magnum input shaft. I have sourced these and will also include that with a purchase. Lastly quicktime bell hits the tunnel at the 10 o'clock position, but it is a 5 minute fix with an angle grinder.

Here are the bolts included from quicktime that were not correct, and the only bolts I had were too long for this test fit. I had to order short 1.5" 12x1.25 thread bolts since they are an odd size.
bolts for t56 magnum swap supra

Rather than hammering the tunnel, I also chose to grind down the bellhousing where the clearance was a little tight. If you are looking at the rear of the bellhousing this is around the 10-o'clock position. 
bellhousing modifications t56 magnum swap quicktime bellhousing supra 2jz

Here is the bellhousing after the cutting/grinding.
cut bellhousing t56 magnum quicktime supra 2jz swap tr6060

Here it is after the cutting and re-install (before raising the motor up to level)
quicktime steel 2jz bellhousing supra t56 magnum t56 swap

Here you can see the proper size sealed pilot bearing I include with my kits. This is not provided by Quicktime or CRS with their bells.
Supra T56 Magnum swap pilot bearing 2JZ tr6060

Other than those few issues this bellhousing installs quite easily. If you are looking to swap your Supra, IS300 or other 2JZ car and looking for a kit or an install email me.

Here are my kits:


GR700
Recommended for applications making 500-800RWHP
GR900
Recommended for applications making OVER  800 RWHP
GR1000
Recommended for applications making over 1000 RWHP
GR1000F
Recommended for race applications making over 1000 RWHP

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GR1000F - A Faceplated Tremec T56 Magnum

Let's face it... Drag racing competitively on a synchronized transmission is not only painfully expensive, but also extremely frustrating. Some might even say it's a waste of time! I have been locked out of gears at high rpm, had gear failures, mis-shifts, and multiple ruined synchronizer rings over the past 2 years while running the V160 under extreme horsepower.

Not only is broken parts a problem, but the speed at which you can shift is limited by the synchronizers. Trying to go fast with a giant turbo, and still using a synchro box is a battle I have been losing. I have always ran nitrous to combat the car coming out of power between shifts... but nitrous has also caused me failures. I have cracked the intake manifold more than once due to backfires.

While I have not had any issues with my synchro GR1000 transmission since I made the change, I have been watching videos of the Honda guys running faceplated/dogbox transmissions. These guys use a strain gauge to interrupt power, which make the shifts lightning fast. This allows full throttle shifting. Not only that, but I saw Len Bacon's orange RX7 pick up massive ET (a half second!!!) by switching from a factory transmission to a g-force. So basically it's time to quit playing around... I know I am loosing tons of ET continuing with these synchro boxes.

You could faceplate a V160... but now that parts are impossible to find that would be a waste of time. One broken trans and you would be screwed... This is one of the reasons I swapped to the Tremec T56 Magnum. There is so much more aftermarket support available for the magnum. Sequential shifters, faceplating, gear ratios, etc etc! And when you need to do a rebuild... parts are readily available! I have seen so many people gouging others selling discontinued V160 parts.

faceplated gears


From Left: synchronized gear, Pro-shifted gear, Faceplated gear

 

So, about 3 months ago I placed an order for a faceplated transmission. It has billet shift forks, is fully cryogenically treated, and has everything the GR1000 has but then add on faceplated 1st-4th gears. It is the ULTIMATE 6-speed transmission.

The transmission has been sitting in my garage for about a month, waiting for me to install. An opportunity came up to run a 1/2 mile event locally and I figured what better time than now to throw this box in and give it a test.

I do not want to run nitrous at the 1/2 mile, so shifting speed is of utmost importance. To me, it was a no brainer to try this transmission and see how much faster it could be shifted... and how much better it can keep me in power on shifts. 

faceplated gearset

Here is an example of a faceplated gear. Notice the synchros only have about 5-6 teeth

 

I did some street testing on the transmission, and the video below is the first time I ever drove the car on the GR1000F. First impressions are that this thing is amazing! I need to adjust the clutch a bit, as its engaging way too far up off the floor, so gear changes are still a bit slower than they could be. I am anxious to really push this box to the limit.

So am I completely done with synchronized boxes? Hell no, I am still going to chase that record! I will be back, but this is gonna be used at the 1/2 mile and I might do some 1/4 mile testing with it as well.

 

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